THE HISTORY OF THE MOST COVETED BAGS

Elections are just around the corner and we're not talking about those of a political nature but those at VOGUE magazine for the It Βag 2015. The presentation of the candidates begins with a short history of past it bags and their place in fashion history. Every decade sees the status symbols in women's wardrobes changing; in the 20s, long pearl necklaces, in the 50s, mink coats, whilst in the 90s, the bag was the most coveted luxury possession. The bags that we hold lend a certain status, like watches for men, they convey luxury and our economic standing.  

The now classic baguette by Fendi, the nylon rucksack by Prada, the Speedy bag by Louis Vuitton, the chic 2.55 by Chanel and the waiting lists for the iconic quilted Lady Dior, are proof of the turn made in the fashion houses' creation of must have, iconic accessories, proved through Chloe's Paddington bag, of which 8,000 were already sold before even reaching the stores. Accessories - not clothes - began to be the most coveted items taking the lion's share of luxury profits. As Μarc Jacobs stated: "Every woman can wear whatever shoes or bag she wants, it doesn't matter how skinny or tall you are, whether you're blond, blue eyed or tanned."

As time passed, it bags followed trends and became more minimal and less logo-oriented. Stuart Veners creative director of the US brand Coach stated :"What makes an "it Bag" is the fact that it's new - that's the only formula there is."

 So without further ado, here are the it bag candidates for 2015: It Bag Hall of Fame

 

Hermès

NAME: Kelly
DOB: C. 1935 and renamed in c. 1956.
NAMESAKE: Named after the American actress Grace Kelly who became the princess of Monaco who was reported to have carried the bag in order to hide the fact that she was pregnant.

LORE: The "love affair" with the French house began in 1954 when the bag was featured in the film of Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief after which the house renamed the bag the "Kelly".

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Photo: Howard Sochurek/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images 

 

 

Gucci

NAME: Jackie
DOB: 1950s
NAMESAKE: C. 1961 the bag was renamed the Jackie, as the first lady favoured wearing it. 
BACKSTORY: It was relaunched by Tom Ford in 1999 and again as the new Jackie in 2009 under the creative directorship of Frida Giannni. 

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Photo: David McGough/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images  

 

 

Hermès

NAME: Birkin
DOB: 1984
NAMESAKE: The chic British actress.

ORIGINS: Birkin supposedly sat next to Hermes' chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1984 in which she told him that she wished her bag had more space to carry things; the result, a bag coveted by millions of women around the world. The Birkin has elements of the Haut à Courroies bag designed in 1892 by Hermes and its modern version's sales rivals that of the Kelly Bag.

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Photo: Everett Collection 

 

Prada

NAME: Prada Backpack
DOB: 1984
DESIGNER: Miuccia Prada
FACTS: Launched in 1984 from industrial nylon used for army tents, according to Vogue, the utile house classic evolved into its best known form in 1987.

SOUND BITE: "I want always to mix the industrial nature of doing things" Miuccia Prada told the New Yorker in 1990 "with the tradition of the past."

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Photographed by Hans Feurer, Vogue, August 1989, hansfeurer.com 

 

 

Christian Dior

NAME: Lady Dior, a.k.a. the Princess Bag
DOB: 1995
NAMESAKE: Princess Diana
BACKSTORY: Everything began in 1995 when the first lady of France Bernadetter Chirac sent a Dior bag to Princess Diana who fell in love with it on the spot and wore it everywhere. Just a month later, she was photographed on a philanthropic mission holding a child, along with the bag, and the bag became the most iconic it bag from Dior. The house immediately decided to rename it the Lady Dior out of respect to the princess. John Galliano designed the bag inspired by chairs belonging to Napoleon III  which were used for the house's first fashion show in 1947.

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Photo:​ Tim Graham/Getty Image 

 

 

Fendi

NAME: Baguette
DOB: 1997
DESIGNER: Silvia Venturini Fendi
NAMESAKE: This small bag nestles under the shoulder just like a frech loaf of bread from which it took its name.

CLAIM TO FAME: Starred in "Sex and the City".

STATS: Rumour has it that over 100,000 were sold in the first year.  

SOUND BITE: "It was foolish, a treat, anti-functional. It was the first bag which was treated like clothing,"  Silvia Venturini from Fendi told Vogue.

the-history-of-the-it-bag-fendi-sarah-jessica-parker

Photo:​ REX USA 

 

 

Balenciaga

NAME: The City
DOB: 2000
DESIGNER: Nicolas Ghesquière
HISTORY: In June 2000, Ghesquière introduced the First bag, which was followed 18 months later by the City, a bag much loved by style-setters including Kate Moss and Sienna Miller.

SOUND BITE:"It was a new, fresh item, but looked liked like an old, good, friendly thing." Ghesquière told WWD.

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Photo:​ Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images 

 

 

Chanel

NAME: 2.55
DOB: February 1955; reborn in 2005
DESIGNERS: Coco ChanelKarl Lagerfeld
BACKSTORY: Its name is based on the date that it was created and there is almost as much lore about this bag as its creator. With chain handles, this quilted flap bag's burgundy interior is said to be the same colour as the unifrom Coco wore at her convent school whilst the internal pocket is said to have held her love letters.

the-history-of-the-it-bag-chanel-liu-wen 

Photo: Courtesy of Yanyubo 

 

 

Louis Vuitton

NAME: The Graffiti Bag
DOB: 2000
ARTIST: Stephen Sprouse for Louis Vuitton.
SOUND BITE: Marc Jacobs, who worked with Stephen Sprouse to create the graffiti bag, described the bag's aesthetic to Vogue as "anti-snob snobbism".

the-history-of-the-it-bag-louis-vuitton-stephen-sprouse-paris-hilton-nicky-hilton

Photo:​ J. Vespa/WireImage/Getty Images 

 

 

Luella for Mulberry

NAME: Gisele
DOB: 2002
DESIGNERS: Luella Bartley with Stuart Vevers for Mulberry
NAMESAKE: Named after the Brazilian supermodel who opened the show holding it. The Gisele revived interest in the British house which also added the Bayswater to its most coveted bags list.
SOUND BITE: "Τhe name was an accident" Bartley later told The Guardian. "The press went ballistic and the bag came to be known as The Gisele - I didn't plan it. I actually had to write to her and apologize, explain I wasn't using her name, that it just happened. Though I think if I was a model, I'd be pleased to have a bag named after me."  

the-history-of-the-it-bag-luella-reese-witherspoon

Photo:​ Carlo Allegri/Getty Images 

 

 

 

Louis Vuitton

NAME: The Murakami Bag
DOB: 2002
ARTIST: Takashi Murakami for Louis Vuitton
FACTS: Murakami redesigned the classic LV monogram in 33 colours on a black and white background.
BACKSTORY: 13 editions of the kawaii bag were created for the show in patterns like Eye Love You and Monogram Multicolore canvas.
SOUND BITE: Jacobs described working with Murakami as "a monumental marriage of art and commerce".

the-history-of-the-it-bag-louis-vuitton-murakami-naomi-campbell

Photo:​ Jason Nevader/WireImage for Full Picture 

 

 

Chloé

NAME: Paddington
DOB: 2004
DESIGNER: Phoebe Philo
STATS: It took its name from the area in London; every one of the 8,000 bags created for Spring 2005 was sold out before they hit the stores.

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Photo:​ Donato Sardella/WireImage for Guccio Gucci Spa 

 

 

 

Marc Jacobs

NAME: Stam
DOB: 2005
DESIGNER: Marc Jacobs
NAMESAKE: Αfter Jessica Stam, the Canadian born model who was discovered at a doughnuts shop.
STATS: The demand was so strong for the quilted, kiss-lock, chained bag that waiting lists for it were closed.  

 SOUND BITE: "I had no idea it would be so successful" Marc Jacobs told the Evening Standard.

 the-history-of-the-it-bag-marc-jacobs-jessica-stam

Photo:​ Foc Kan/WireImage 

 

 

Proenza Schouler

NAME: PS1
DOB: 2008
CREATORS: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
NAMESAKE: Τhe name of the bag originates form the house's initials/ps are also the initials for public schools in New York - very apt for a satchel type bag! 

SOUND BITE: The designers had intended for this bag to be an anti it-bag, for it to be incognito and only recognised by those in the know. It was never showcased on the catwalk, its launch took place in a hand to hand fashion, whereby friends of the designers held them for a kind of "test drive". Bloggers discovered the PS1 in 2010 and it became the must have bag for fashionistas.

 the-history-of-the-it-bag-proenza-schouler-dakota-fanning

Photo:​ REX/Startraks 

 

 

Alexander Wang

NAME: The Rocco, FKA Coco
DOB: 2009
DESIGNER: Alexander Wang
DEBUT: Style expert Mary-Kate Olsen held this bag before it even reached the stores.

the-history-of-the-it-bag-alexander-wang-mary-kate-olsen

Photo: Jason/Mitchell/Kevin Carmona/BuzzFoto/FilmMagic 

 

 

Céline

NAME: Luggage Tote
DOB: 2009
DESIGNER: Phoebe Philo
THE FANS: Philophiles have made this sell-out roomy, structured tote “a retailer’s dream,” according to WWD.
SOUND BITE: The designer told The Gentlewoman that the idea behind the bag was born out of a general concept for a whole wardrobe encompassing basic ABC items. "I feel like I design for right now. The anchor of my kind of classicism and then the more fanciful things around it are what make my collections personal, and different from those of other designers."

 the-history-of-the-it-bag-celine-kim-kardashian

Photo:​ REX/Beverly News 

 

 

Mulberry

NAME: Alexa
DOB: 2009
DESIGNER: Emma Hill
NAMESAKE: This satchel-style bag was named after model and TV presenter Alexa Chung, according to  Vogue, for its "preppy hipster" style.  
BACKSTORY: Creative director, Emma Hill, was inspired by how Alexa Chung held a vintage Mulberry men's briefcase.  

 the-history-of-the-it-bag-mulberry-alexa-chung

Photo:​ David M. Benett/Getty Images for Mulberry 

 

 

The Row

NAME: Alligator backpack
DOB: 2011
CREATORS: Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen
LORE: Mixing utility and extravagence, this backpack made of the highest quality leather and lined in napa leather made headlines for its $34,000 price tag. Each hand finished bag is individually numbered.

the-history-of-the-it-bag-the-row-ashley-olsen

Photo:​ James Devaney/Getty Images

 

 

By Georgia Pantele

Source: www.vogue.com

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